The 40s « detective » outfit

Hello everybody!

Today I am going to present you one of my latest projects : One that makes me feel like a 1940s detective. (Don’t ask me why, it’s only the strange first feeling I got about it haha! )

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Tadaaaa!!    My 40s « detective-secretary » outfit!!

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This outfit is composed by a silk shirt and a long skirt.

The shirt is made out of a silky fabric  I can’t find the pattern in my stuff, I’m sorry.!IMG_6013

Inside french seams finishing :) . I really love the delicate feather pattern. It appears with movement and light.

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(Sorry, poor quality pictures because of the low brightness level of my appartment lights)

The collar itselfoffers a special feature : I can make a knot with the « extended pieces of collar » (I don’t know what’s the english term for these things :) ) , or I can just leave them, or put them inside the shirt. One shirt, three different ways to wear it! :)

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And then comes the skirt, made with a heavy black fabric!

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it comes from this pattern, and is a charm to sew! Very easy and fast sewing!!

Pattern Mc Call 7488

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Finally, with this outfit you can have fun pretending to be an actress in a 1940s thriller movie!! haha!

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Thank you all for reading, see you soon!

(Thanks babe for all the pictures :) )

And as many crimes occure at midnight, I leave you with a great song of a great artist about a « lonely moon » to close this post :)

I am so sorry I have posted nothing for so long… I had a very busy summer and had no time to stop and take pictures, write a post etc….

BUT

A new one is coming soon, and the outfit inspired me a little picture…. Suspens!!!!!

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See you soon! :)

Nothing’s too good for my baby! part II – 1950s guitar strap!

Hey there!

Today, I am going to show you another project for my beloved boyfriend : I wanted to reward him for his first month without cigarette! I’m so proud of him! Congratulations babe!!!

The 1950s style guitar strap!

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The fact is that he is a singer in a rythm and blues/rockabilly/doo wop band, and really love the old school sound. Don’t hesitate to check out their website if you enjoy this great music too! :

The Ol'Bry website

 However, nowadays he hasn’t got an enough vintage looking guitar strap.

Héhé no problem : his girlfriend is going to solve this problem!

I got inspirations from old pictures of rock’n’roll artists. They had very thin leather straps, with sometimes a pad to protect the shoulder.

Mr Hank Williams :

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Mr Johnny Cash :

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Mr Chuck Berry :

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Mr Buddy Holly :

Music. Personalities. pic: circa 1957. American singer, songwriter and pioneer of rock Buddy Holly (1936-1959) who with his group "The Crickets" was one of the most popular entertainers of the 1950's. Buddy Holly tragically died in a plane crash in 1959.

And here is the kind of things you can find on the internet :

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Not really personal, and the pad doesn’t look very confortable…

So, I chose a fake used-looking leather (I don’t like the use of real leather, just as real fur)

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And I added a big amount of fleece inside the shoulder pad, so my honey’s shoulder would be well protected! I used a simple  black fabric to make the other face. Here’s the exploded sandwich :

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The strap :

This is 2cm wide. I reinforced the fake leather with interfacing.

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Then I realised the structure with a strong ribbon of « gros grain » because, as you can see bellow, my baby is definitely not a calm person on stage haha!!!

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I used a recycled belt buccle from an old hand bag to finish the strap. Every holes are reinforced with zigzag stitches?

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And finally, I wanted to add something a little bit more personal on it. I eventually chose to simply embroid his initials on it, « EG ».I used my usual sewing machine, ajusted the stitches to get the widht I wanted, and made the finitions with hand sewing :).  I am a little proud of this first embroidery, which didn’t turn as bad as I thought it would! hehe!! :)

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Nothing’s too good for my baby! part I – 1950s suit jacket prototype!!

Hello everyone!

I hope it’s as sunny were you are as it was these last days in France! (well not today, wich was a pretty « wet day »…).

I am currently working on so many projects beside my school work that I have the feeling I never stop! haha! But I have to admit I love it :) !!

I have been working on a huge project lately that I would like to share with you :

A 1950s suit jacket!!

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In fact I studied the traditional tailoring process and stiff (I am not sure it is the correct term in english for entoilage)

Among all, this very interesting wesite has helped me a lot, thanks to is precise sketches and explanations :

http://stiff-collar.com/

For example : Those simple drawings helped me a lot to understand how a suit structure can be realised!

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I used this british pattern was a beginning, and altered it so it would fit my boyfriend :).

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I made a prototype and made my personnal « guinea pig » wear it so I could ajust it. haha!

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As you can see he was very confortable with staying calm for a photoshoot!

The final result will have the right lenght, or a little longer. Vintage british jacket were really long!

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I also shortened a little bit the arm lenght

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The shoulders seem to fit pretty well! (pad included in the right shoulder)

We decided to change the collar to a narrower and longer one.

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I found a grey and white woolen fabric on ebay for the outside, and a burgundy duchess satin for the inside.

Sometimes I feel like the luckiest girl on earth : the other day, as I was in my usual fabric shop, I asked hopelessly if they had tailor interlining (again I am not really sure of the translation of « toile tailleur »).

And the nice lady told me that, two weeks ago, she received for the first time since she started working there (15 years ago) this very fabric!! YYEEEEEEEYY!!!

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The woolen fabric :

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The lining fabric :

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And the structural fabric :

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We are still looking for the perfect buttons to match this project, I will show you as soon as we find :)

And yes, too much clothes fitting can really drive a man crazy! Hahaha!!!

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Thanks for reading! See you soon for part II !!!!

 

 

 

The Waikiki dress

Hello!

I would like to present one of my latest project : The Waikiki dress!

 

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I made it with a printed coton I found on a fabric website

Doesn’t it look like it comes from the 40s? And it was at sale price : only 10€/3meters!!! I feel really lucky sometimes haha!

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When I found it I immediately got those lovely 40s-50s pictures popping in my head :

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I looked through ebay and etsy to find the perfect sarong dress pattern. And I was really surprised when I saw the results. Especially this one, the Butterick 6056 which is sold between 100 and 225€ !!!!! Seriously? 225€ for a pattern ??

WHY??

It doesn’t look like using complex technics. Maybe it is rare, but this is definitely a crazy price for a pattern to me!!

 

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So, I chose to look through the patterns I have, and tried to make my own.

I finally used this top pattern (the black one) :

 

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And this straight skirt pattern.

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The skirt was from a plus size pattern, so I had to resize it to fit me. And I changed the straps and joined them behind the neck. These were really easy to make, even with the alterations. Although I changed it a lot, I think the waist is still a little too wide. But I was afraid it wouldn’t be confortable if it was too close to my size, as the cotton is not elastic at all.

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A few details :

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As you can see, I am really happy with this dress haha!!

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I can’t wait to wear it and dance with it in a concert!!

Thanks for reading!

And see you soon, I have many other projects to show you!!  And a big one on the go!!

 

Awesome friend and 1940s-1950s bag

Hey everyone!

I’m back on tracks! I’m so sorry this place has been so dead lately…In this post, I would like to thank a super duper friend of mine !!

A few months ago she sent me a picture of it and told me « I found this in my attic, would you be interested in it? »

« YEEEEEEEEEESSSS!!!!! »

It was love at first sight!! I love the fact that it has a story, and belonged to a very elegant lady in the 50s! She also put those delightful letters on the burgundy leather. (her name initials)

I love it, the size, the shape, the leather, the clasp, everything is great!!!!!!

Thank you so much Solène, you’re the best!!!!! :D

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1940s coat work

Hey everyone!

First of all, NO I’m not dead haha. I have been overwhelmed with school work these last weeks… I spent my days drawing maps and gathering informations for my school project…

I enventually found some time to work on my coat but quite more slowly than this summer.

As the pattern is a 30bust and I am more a 34, I had to resize it. I made a muslin, which seemed to fit well. But then, using the final fabric I realised it was way too big!!

First, the tracing and cutting time was really… hum… interesting in my little student flat. The whole piece of fabric took almost the width of the room haha!

As you can see it was dark because I only can work on it at night, And that there is a big problem with the electrical outlets organization in the room haha!

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I feared I might lack of fabric but finally it was just enough, and I still have small pieces left to make a matching hat! Yey!!

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arrow stitces, hard to do on such a thick fabric and with the pleats, but cute!

As I told you earlier, I had to alter the coat after gathering the pieces with the final fabric. The back and waist were really too wide, and although I resized the shoulder width proportionally from the original pattern, the final version also had too wide shoulders! I know in those times shoulders were really marked, and underlined with shoulder pads, but it disturbed me…

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The fit wasn’t really well. On the model it wasn’t obvious, but when I wore it it was all pleated in the back and the sides…. I tried to add the collar (previous picture), but it didn’t solve the problem much…

I don’t know were could be my mistake …

So I made a long list of alterations, trying with he sleeves or without, and finally here’s the no-sleeve result today, not so bad I think!

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Sorry, my model didn’t resist all the movings, and it is falling apart,. So it’s not the coat that is twisted, it is the model haha!

So I have to re-sew the sleeves, and draft the lining : as I altered the final pieces a lot,, the lining patterns are false now. I think I will mould it directly on the coat.

See you later for the next step!!!

Thanks for reading!