The Waikiki dress

Hello!

I would like to present one of my latest project : The Waikiki dress!

 

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I made it with a printed coton I found on a fabric website

Doesn’t it look like it comes from the 40s? And it was at sale price : only 10€/3meters!!! I feel really lucky sometimes haha!

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When I found it I immediately got those lovely 40s-50s pictures popping in my head :

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I looked through ebay and etsy to find the perfect sarong dress pattern. And I was really surprised when I saw the results. Especially this one, the Butterick 6056 which is sold between 100 and 225€ !!!!! Seriously? 225€ for a pattern ??

WHY??

It doesn’t look like using complex technics. Maybe it is rare, but this is definitely a crazy price for a pattern to me!!

 

$T2eC16F,!ykFId4j01rfBSKJ7Epo,Q~~60_12

 

 

So, I chose to look through the patterns I have, and tried to make my own.

I finally used this top pattern (the black one) :

 

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And this straight skirt pattern.

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The skirt was from a plus size pattern, so I had to resize it to fit me. And I changed the straps and joined them behind the neck. These were really easy to make, even with the alterations. Although I changed it a lot, I think the waist is still a little too wide. But I was afraid it wouldn’t be confortable if it was too close to my size, as the cotton is not elastic at all.

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A few details :

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As you can see, I am really happy with this dress haha!!

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I can’t wait to wear it and dance with it in a concert!!

Thanks for reading!

And see you soon, I have many other projects to show you!!  And a big one on the go!!

 

Awesome friend and 1940s-1950s bag

Hey everyone!

I’m back on tracks! I’m so sorry this place has been so dead lately…In this post, I would like to thank a super duper friend of mine !!

A few months ago she sent me a picture of it and told me "I found this in my attic, would you be interested in it?"

"YEEEEEEEEEESSSS!!!!!"

It was love at first sight!! I love the fact that it has a story, and belonged to a very elegant lady in the 50s! She also put those delightful letters on the burgundy leather. (her name initials)

I love it, the size, the shape, the leather, the clasp, everything is great!!!!!!

Thank you so much Solène, you’re the best!!!!! :D

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1940s coat work

Hey everyone!

First of all, NO I’m not dead haha. I have been overwhelmed with school work these last weeks… I spent my days drawing maps and gathering informations for my school project…

I enventually found some time to work on my coat but quite more slowly than this summer.

As the pattern is a 30bust and I am more a 34, I had to resize it. I made a muslin, which seemed to fit well. But then, using the final fabric I realised it was way too big!!

First, the tracing and cutting time was really… hum… interesting in my little student flat. The whole piece of fabric took almost the width of the room haha!

As you can see it was dark because I only can work on it at night, And that there is a big problem with the electrical outlets organization in the room haha!

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I feared I might lack of fabric but finally it was just enough, and I still have small pieces left to make a matching hat! Yey!!

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arrow stitces, hard to do on such a thick fabric and with the pleats, but cute!

As I told you earlier, I had to alter the coat after gathering the pieces with the final fabric. The back and waist were really too wide, and although I resized the shoulder width proportionally from the original pattern, the final version also had too wide shoulders! I know in those times shoulders were really marked, and underlined with shoulder pads, but it disturbed me…

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The fit wasn’t really well. On the model it wasn’t obvious, but when I wore it it was all pleated in the back and the sides…. I tried to add the collar (previous picture), but it didn’t solve the problem much…

I don’t know were could be my mistake …

So I made a long list of alterations, trying with he sleeves or without, and finally here’s the no-sleeve result today, not so bad I think!

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manteau dos

Sorry, my model didn’t resist all the movings, and it is falling apart,. So it’s not the coat that is twisted, it is the model haha!

So I have to re-sew the sleeves, and draft the lining : as I altered the final pieces a lot,, the lining patterns are false now. I think I will mould it directly on the coat.

See you later for the next step!!!

Thanks for reading!

Huge project on the go : 1940s coat, inspired by Gladys the Bomb girl!

Hey everyone!

Sewing projects have been on pause lately, because of my studies that take a huge amount of my time. So I decided that, instead of making small projects that I would be tempted to finish in a hurry and not the best way, I am going to work on long term sewing projects.

I found out a few weeks ago that the canadian serie Bomb girls has been stopped… I got attached to these working ladies, so I was really desappointed about the news…  I watched again the two seasons and realized that I focused a lot on clothes and possible patterns that would fit. And then I saw the Gladys’s coat in season 2, and I fell in love!

When I have an idea, I get pretty obsessed with it and I HAVE to make it real!

Here’s the killer coat!

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I started some intensive researches to find the perfect pattern. And finally I found it : OOOHHH YEEEAAH!! Ain’t it AWESOME??!! I love it!! (The sleeves are really less puffy, and I think they are easier to wear in an everyday style (people in my school think I am strange because of my retro look, so if I wear this kind of coat I will probably be banned hahahaha!)). At first I didn’t plan to do the fur collar, but now I think it would be great for wintery concerts and shows! I am still looking for a pattern for the hat, if you have an advice (shop etc…) it would be great :) .

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I am planning to make the four buttons  model on the right

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Pockets with arrows stitches on a very classic coat, what a clever idea!

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Many pieces to join… Scares me a bit, especially the two-pieces sleeves.

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Ironing pattern, tracing, cutting… AArgh I hate it! It is really the unfunny step of sewing to me!

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A great surprise in the pattern enveloppe : A vintage "Vogue design" label to sew on the finished cloth! I don’t know how many labels were in it when it was new, but I feel very lucky there’s still one for me!!

Fabric :

I really love the burgundy-kind of color (it’s in fact my favourite color!), but when I looked through fabric stores, burgundy boiled wool or coat fabric didn’t satisfy me.

I fell on a blue/green "caban" (I don’t know the english term for it sorry!) fabric, and I loved it! Plus it was only 20€/ for 3m !! I didn’t hesitate long, and I tried on Gladys Picture to see how it looked like. (Sorry I did it really quickly so it is not perfect)

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and here is the fabric :

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It is very soft and seems pretty warm too!! Peeeeerfect for northern winter!

And finally, here are the cute buttons I bought on ebay, and that I am waiting to receive!

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I am currently still chosing the lining fabric, hesitations etc…

see you soon for the next step : muslin and resizing!

And you, have you already made a coat? A vintage style one? Leave some links in the comments, I would love to see them!

Oh! And would you have advices for me about coats? :)

Thanks for reading!

I don’t know why but this project also makes me reconsider  the "richelieu" shoes. I wasn’t a fan previously, but I think this coat is calling for elegant and closed shoes.

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fall vs summer

Hi everyone!

It’s september, almost fall, and to me it also means "back to school"… Image

BUT I am still on holidays for a few days, so I still have my mind on "summer" mood.

So I present two of my last realisations : "Back to school" oufit and High waisted swimsuit!

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So first, here is my "back to school" outfit.

The trousers are from the 3688 Simplicity pattern

ImageI used this pattern once for a swingin outfit, with a beige, kind of linen, fabric. This time I used a black synthetic fluid fabric. It is really confortable, but not really hot… Anyway I really like it!

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Yep I am barefoot… But I had the "lonely sock curse" over me : I lost ONE of my saddle shoes in my parents entrance. Seriously I don’t know where it could go!

The pants look quite long but it’s just long enough, and doesn’t touch the floor WHEN I wear my shoes. And I think it looks better with heel shoes :).

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Sorry for the photos quality, the sun was really shy…

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The blouse is from a 1940s pattern I presented in my "fall for cotton" challenge participation. This was really easy to sew, cotton is SO easy to sew… I LOVE cotton!!! haha

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It has topstitching on the collar, back yoke and the front. I used blue thread as I didn’t want it to be too bright.

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Finally, I chose black "fabric like" buttons. I think they are cuttie cute!

I wore this outfit this week end to a rockabilly festival, and got a lot of compliments about it! :D

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(photo by Ladyharley Marcy photographe amateur)

High waisted swimsuit

And now here come my high waisted swimsuit I made this summer. It has been a long time since I wanted to sew my own vintage style swimwear.

I had some kind of marine lycra/jersey left from a previous skirt, so I decided it may me the time to try and do it!!

And this is definitive, I HATE sewing jersey. With those little pieces it was awful and it almost flew throught the window many many times!!!

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I got the pattern and tutorial on this website. I had to altere a little the pieces but it was really useful!!!!

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view from the back

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I love those "rope" buttons!

This is a really confortable swimwear, and it looks so 40s-50s, I LOVE it! If one day I find a beautiful printed lycra I will probably make me another one, but right now this one is perfect for me :).

Et voilaaaaa!!

Thanks for reading!

1950s teen blouse

Hey everyone!

This summer, I also made me a blouse that I really love to wear!

I called it "1950s teen blouse" because it is very neutral, very "nice", with its blue flowers on white fabric.

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This is the 1950s pattern :) (Simplicity S.116)

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It is made with lightweight cotton fabric I bought to a sweet lady. In fact, I particularly love this blouse because the fabric itself has a little story : She inherited it from her mother, who volontary sewed clothes for homeless, and people in need. This is the kind of beahviour that really enforces respect!

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Although I interfaced it, the collar doesn’t hold up as much as the pattern design, so it lays flat, and creates a very wide collar ^^.

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Oh and the nice detail, I like how the collar is built : it is in two pieces gathering on the back. It was a little difficult to understand how to join it because it was almost too easy for a collar ^^.

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Détail

Fabric close up

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1950s teen blouse wearing manual

You can wear it with a pair of jeans, but its also really confortable with a jersey skirt!  And, with this super confortable outfit, you can :

- Survive from a hot summer day that is really too hot and makes you grumpy…Image

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- Feel like a s̶h̶o̶w̶ ̶o̶f̶f̶  well dressed up princess…

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- Find an handsome prince and take a picture together with a strangely-too-pink-building-that-you-don’t-even-see-on-the-picture in the background…

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(matching clothes, you noticed that? :p)

- Pose por a "singing in the rain" photograph t̶r̶y̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶s̶l̶i̶p̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶d̶a̶m̶n̶ ̶w̶e̶t̶ ̶l̶a̶m̶p̶p̶o̶s̶t̶ swinging with an umbrella like a real girly Gene Kelly …

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- Make some friends….

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- Look for a future trip…

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- And finally refuel your car…

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… And drive safely back home :)

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Thanks for reading!

1950s wedding lace dress

Hi everybody!

These last days I have been working on a project that started this summer. A colleague of one of my summer jobs asked me if I could make her a dress for a wedding. She was one of the witness, so there was a lot of pressure! Moreover it was the first "order" I got from somebody who wasn’t one of my relatives or friends!

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She had an exact idea of what she wanted. Luckily, it was a 1950s style dress, and I had a few patterns that would be useful. Especially, I had a book "vintage sewing" that my step sister gave me for my birthday.
This is specialised in 60s clothes but it can also be used for earlier decades.(Mathilde if you pass by, thank you again!)

So, I used the bottom of a pattern, and the top is from another one.

ImageThe top is from this pattern (I think those darts are really "chic" ^^):Image

And the bottom comes from this one :

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So I started with a muslin I ajusted to the lady’s measurements.

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She tried it, and it seemed to fit pretty well :) . I took the measurement for the "arm opening" (sorry I don’t know the technical term yet…).

She wanted to change some things to the original patterns :

- A lower neckline

- More darts on the front skirt

- Lace sleeves.

- A lace belt

- A not-too-puffy petticoat

So it was changed!

I used Dupion taffeta (I fell in LOVE with this fabric, less shiny than taffeta, and without its annoying noise ("sshhhrrsshhhrrsshh"…) when you move…), black lining, tulle and a lovely stretchy (for confort) lace.

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I love dupion taffeta!

First, I put together the front parts of the top, in outside fabric and in lining, seamed the darts, and joined the shoulders.

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Then, I joined lining and fabric right sides together, and seamed the neckline

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Image Turn the siamese siamese top inside out. (one side is still open because there will be the zipper ;) )Image

Then the pleated skirt, with marcks, pressing, basting, and sewing ^^ImageImageImage

After that, I had to draft the sleeves pattern, and used some tips I had found to make the shoulders less "flat" on the top. (the third of the schemes)

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And then, I cut the stretchy lace, and sewed the sleeves to the top. It almost make me have a nervous breakdown… Seriously I will think twice before using stretchy lace for sleeves again. (Although I think this is the most confortable solution)ImageImage

Oh and, ain’t it lovelyyy??!!

I used my sewing machine blind hem stitches:

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Blind hem, even inside ^^

And it finally turned out like that :) :

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Finally, it makes me think about the ballet dresses :) .

 I am currently finishing to hand sew the lining ^^.

Thanks for reading!