Lately I started a project I called « hell in thread » because of the crazy hours I spent on hand stitching. Well at least at first step, then it got other beautiful nicknames haha!
This is the second article I write about it, here is the first one, about the pattern and adjustments.
I started with the structural process, I chose the second option (B) in the following drawings, from the awesome website stiff collar. The shoulder is formed with a rounded piece of structural fabric.
So, first of all, I sewed the inside pocket. This is the first step of building a piped pocket :)
Then; here is the assembled inside structure :
Theses layers are sewn on the outside fabric along the outside edge.
I rubbed pure bees wax on the thread so it wouldn’t « curl » and create annoying knots during the process :)
Here is the purpose of the rounded shape of the piece on the shoulder : to create a « bump » that will accompany the shoulder-chest.
The collar :
I hand stitched the structural fabric on the outside fabric, with the collar folded in its final position, so it may be its « natural » position.
Then I added a black tape on the edges to reinforce them (red line on the previous « stiff collar » drawings), and another along the folding line of the collar (blue strip on the drawings).
(red thread is tacking stitches ;) )
Tapes are also hand stitched :)
both sides finished!
The upper collar : hand stitched and also reinforced in corners.
then gathered the under collar to the jacket.
and then the upper collar on the under collar!
Sorry for the bad light quality, it was late! Haha ^^
I processed to reinforce the wrist and build them
It’s all for now,
see you soon for the « Nothing too good for my baby – part 4 »: The lining of my darling’s jacket!
Thanks for reading!