These last days I have been working on a project that started this summer. A colleague of one of my summer jobs asked me if I could make her a dress for a wedding. She was one of the witness, so there was a lot of pressure! Moreover it was the first "order" I got from somebody who wasn’t one of my relatives or friends!
She had an exact idea of what she wanted. Luckily, it was a 1950s style dress, and I had a few patterns that would be useful. Especially, I had a book "vintage sewing" that my step sister gave me for my birthday.
This is specialised in 60s clothes but it can also be used for earlier decades.(Mathilde if you pass by, thank you again!)
So, I used the bottom of a pattern, and the top is from another one.
And the bottom comes from this one :
So I started with a muslin I ajusted to the lady’s measurements.
She tried it, and it seemed to fit pretty well :) . I took the measurement for the "arm opening" (sorry I don’t know the technical term yet…).
She wanted to change some things to the original patterns :
- A lower neckline
- More darts on the front skirt
- Lace sleeves.
- A lace belt
- A not-too-puffy petticoat
So it was changed!
I used Dupion taffeta (I fell in LOVE with this fabric, less shiny than taffeta, and without its annoying noise ("sshhhrrsshhhrrsshh"…) when you move…), black lining, tulle and a lovely stretchy (for confort) lace.
I love dupion taffeta!
First, I put together the front parts of the top, in outside fabric and in lining, seamed the darts, and joined the shoulders.
Then, I joined lining and fabric right sides together, and seamed the neckline
After that, I had to draft the sleeves pattern, and used some tips I had found to make the shoulders less "flat" on the top. (the third of the schemes)
And then, I cut the stretchy lace, and sewed the sleeves to the top. It almost make me have a nervous breakdown… Seriously I will think twice before using stretchy lace for sleeves again. (Although I think this is the most confortable solution)
Oh and, ain’t it lovelyyy??!!
I used my sewing machine blind hem stitches:
Blind hem, even inside ^^
And it finally turned out like that :) :
Finally, it makes me think about the ballet dresses :) .
I am currently finishing to hand sew the lining ^^.
Thanks for reading!